Only Hearts began in 1978 on Columbus Avenue in New York City. The original boutique was a tiny, outrageous temple to all things heart-shaped: vintage lockets to corsets, the precious to the sensual. It quickly became a destination for heart collectors; lovers searching for the perfect token of appreciation, and wanna-be lovers searching for a tempting bribe.

Its uniqueness caught the attention of the neighborhood and the newspapers; in February, when lines of customers snaked out the door and down the block, news crews labeled Only Hearts ‘…a shop for the shameless romantic’ and the first stop in one's search for the perfect Valentine. Neighbors, hipsters, tourists, and celebrities became enthusiastic regulars.  And the iconic New York City heritage brand was born.

Creator Helena Stuart took the idea to multiple locations and her imaginative personal style easily morphed into designing a fresh, seminal take on lingerie as fashion, her inner outerwear^TM concept and ultimately, the outerwear collections of today.

For the past few years her partner has been daughter Kaya Stuart, 29. Growing up in Manhattan, she trained at Parsons School of Design and in addition to her work in fashion was previously a professional pastry chef. Kaya contributes both design and management skills and is currently developing her own clothing line.

The collection 'Helena Stuart for Only Hearts' is designed and manufactured in New York City. It is featured in every major magazine, seen on the hottest celebrities, and sold at the finest specialty shops and department stores throughout the world. The Only Hearts retail shops have also continued to expand: in addition to the original boutique on Columbus Avenue, a second NYC store can be found in the heart of NoLiTa on Mott Street. The west coast store is on Montana Avenue in Santa Monica, California, and three European boutiques are located in Rome, Italy.

An Interview with Helena Stuart

In the early 80’s, a young shopkeeper named Helena Stuart began designing her own line of intimate apparel – flirty and fashioned to meet a modern woman's needs. Even with a toddler, a newborn, and a shop to run, she managed to cut and sew samples at night on her living room floor. As her own best advertisement, Helena layered bras and camisoles with vintage dresses, tee and slips, daring her customers to do the same. She innocently helped sow the seeds for a generation of downtown girls who would begin wearing lingerie as outerwear, turning popular culture inside out.
Web Editor, Only Hearts

You’ve been designing since attending FIT in 1969. Does it come easily to you?
I tend to be in a continuous state of exploration… which is where it all comes from.

You started with lingerie. Why did you decide to take on ready-to-wear?
I didn't mean to start with lingerie. I just started, and it happened that I was wearing my lingerie out, as clothing. I began designing for the shop, and when I looked around at the market, I realized what I was making looked like lingerie and that was the category where it would fit.

Did you always know you wanted to design clothing?
No, but I always had the need to make people - my sisters, my mother, my friends - look the way that I thought they should.

Is it true you got fired from your first job for not wearing a bra?
(Laughs) …that was in 1970 and I was working at Bonwit Teller in the hosiery department. My fellow staffers were, ah, middle-aged women and my approach didn't really fit in. John Kloss, who was an early inspiration of mine, was making these little triangle bras that were beautiful, but like wearing nothing. So although I capitulated, they weren't the type of undergarments that the HR department had in mind.

You were a DJ in NYC in the 70's. What have you been listening to lately?
Otis Redding, Gillian Welch, and Will Oldham and all his monikers.

You were raised in Italy. Did that experience influence your personal style?
Definitely. As a child, my clothes were tailor made for me. The seamstress would come to our home, my mother would describe what she wanted, and they’d take measurements and make them up. Also, my Mother modeled in Milano, and after shows she was often given gorgeous fabrics that would find their way into my wardrobes. I learned from early on to be very particular about fabric and fit.

Describe your point-of-view.
Flattering a woman's body comes first. My first job in the industry was as a fit model, and to this day I have to try everything on myself. With each piece I am searching for the artist's line that creates a beautiful silhouette.

I don't want my clothes to age after one season. I believe in building a wardrobe, and I want my customer to be able to wear my clothes for years and not feel dated. I want her to look appealing, without giving too much away. As a woman I understand what fits a woman's body, and I understand how to capture the male gaze.

Describe your customer.
Stylish, ahead of the trend. I admit I’m not for everybody, but there's a certain type of woman who gets me and I get her... She takes risks in fashion, buying before things hit the mass market, because she's confident and knows what she wants and how to make it work for her.

Describe your signature style.
Sensual, lighthearted, unstudied.

Beyond fashion, what moves you?
I lose myself in my gardens. It’s equally inspiring and humbling to be in touch with nature, and I do love to work with my hands..
Also, photography, seeing something through someone else's eyes. How they choose to capture a moment; that vision... my son Cary has it, although these days he's applying it to film rather than photography.

Favorite city?
Paris-London-New York-Los Angeles. I can't separate them.

What 5 things would you take to a desert isle?
Declor sun block, drawing tools, my subscription to The Sun, my husband’s iPod... and my husband, of course.

What do you hope to do before you die?
Play a musical instrument.

You started the inner outerwear trend, even trademarking the name. Are you surprised at how accepted it is now?
Absolutely. When I was trying to sell it back then, it was considered odd. The real reason I went into lingerie was that I couldn't sell my things in ready-to-wear stores. It didn't look like ‘proper clothing' to the buyers.

What is your greatest extravagance?
Sleeping late.

Love of your life?
My husband Jonathan.

Your major defect?
Impatience.

Favorite color?
I gravitate towards different colors depending on where I am and the time of year. I really don’t have a constant favorite.

Favorite movie?
King of Hearts by Philippe de Broca.

Motto?
Never give up.

Favorite article of clothing?
A silk slip.

Flats or heels?
Barefoot.

Gold or silver?
Gold. I'm Italian!